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Thanks for the comment and you're probably right, however, although I like trying new ideas and in the case construction methods (new to me) if I have a doubt about something I try to 'encourage' myself to take the conservative choice and it was more about spacing the skins further apart to give a stiffer panel as I'm planning on using a minimum of internal structure. Another lesson for me was to not follow the gunnel for the first plank but lay it around the hull where it more naturally wanted to lay. By doing it the way I did, one edge always wanted to kick out and the other kick in. So they weren't staying as fair as I'd like between the frames (they were being stressed in their most resistant direction) and I really did want to minimize the fairing I needed to do, to save weight, work and materials. Sounds like your canoe turned out well!

Something I also have to admit and deal with is I've been told more than once by friends I need to not strive for perfection (to me it's far from it!), and it's true, perfection is the enemy of getting a boat in the water!

Really appreciate your comment Alec and really good you are enjoying the videos. Yes, when you get the opportunity, you have to go for it! I wonder what the creativity of your 'steam punk' world could do for the looks and function of a yacht ;-)

That's a good question and I could have explained better in the video but I'm trying not to make them too long. I wanted to get a thin even coat of fairing so I didn't have to chase humps and hollows too much and looked on Utube for the best method others have used and found one method that I thought was worth a try. I went back and forwards as to whether I liked it or not and in the end really didn't like it for the following reasons. It's extra work, to coat between the strips I had to sand the previous strip edges. I don't think it gave and extra control of thickness, thickness seems to be best controlled by covering a certain amount with each trowel. It's time consuming to have to go back. And maybe this is the biggest reason, at the edges I couldn't avoid getting a higher resin 'glassy edge' which is a lot harder so the plane would even balk at it and sandpaper would tend to ride over it. I wanted to avoid putting a large amount of easily sandable undercoat to to create an even hardness surface, for cost, time and weight considerations. I think I've got away with it but it does mean treating the first coat of Durepox as a sanding undercoat, which is fine IF you sand it straight away, as I did. I'm no plasterer but you can see that when I was nearly finished and doing the bottom, I was starting to get the hang of it and the bottom is easier because you can put on a thinner coat and know it is less likely to sag. I've spent a lot of time in boat yards, doing the engineering work and always watching, out of the corner of my eye, how other trades did things. I liked the idea of doing what RAN sailing did at first and went way from, using a notched screed which certainly has it's merits as you can almost perfectly gauge the depth of the first spread but I didn't like the idea of not being able to sand in the grooves to get a 'key' but I've seen professionals use the method with success! The other thing is, I did so much fairing before glassing, I really did not need a lot of filler and I'm really not bothered with I really high level finish. It's one of those areas of construction where you could spend a huge amount of time, and to my mind it's not worth it. I've seen an experienced having something so nicely finished, you're afraid to use it! I'm more about trying novel concepts and the challenges with rewards that 'can' bring. Yes, sorry about the twist at the end, I was a bit stunned when I looked all over the place for the footage I thought I had taken after setting up the 'reveal'. To be honest, it's not a great looking finish as it's heavily sanded so is very flat and only intended as an undercoat. But it certainly was a milestone in construction.

@@KarlFullerNZ thank you for the detailed answer! I am learning a lot from your channel. I know from my own experience what a hassle it is to make videos and so I really appreciate the effort here, especially roping in a camera person so you can get some action shots! I think the same way with faring but the results that I accept are much worse than what you do! I will try for more on the next boat though!

@@dominictarrsailing that's great you got something from my videos, just passing on what little experience I have and what I've learnt from others. Haha, as for roping in a camera person, that's my partner stopping by the shed on the way home from work and taking the initiative to grab some video although I'll have to remind her to use panorama and steady the movement but it's a great little perspective and it's good to see Utube doesn't prevent a little copyright music in the background that I was listening to. I checked out your channel, subscribed and I'm looking forward to viewing your experiences! Yeah, there's nothing like experience to get fairing right.....

Good to hear you have a NIS 23, I was seriously considering to build one and if one had come up for sale in NZ, I might be an owner of one now. I think there is possibly only 1 in NZ. It's interesting to see what you have determined as the numbers for your Sharpie. My design certainly departs from some aspects that typify a Sharpie, I certainly have more draft and the ballast deeper which has plus's and minus's. Rodger Martin gave a very good explanation of why ballast in the bilge can work so well, being that the ballast is more in line with the forces that resist the hull so can give less pitching and because the sail area is lower, the sail moves less fore and aft, so reducing the 'angle of attack' constant change. Having the ballast as part of the bottom is good, having the dual purpose of making the hull extra strong and of course, being part of the ballast. I just did a rough calculation and you could easily have over 200kgs of plywood in the bottom of your boat, adding to the ballast. Having a narrow WL has it's merits. I only have rough details of the NIS 23 but just having a look at my drawings, I have the NIS 23 having a WL Beam of 1890mm and my boat is about 1647 at the same place in the middle of the yacht but my max beam is a bit aft of that, coming in at 1787 a meter aft of the middle. I was a bit surprised by that, I thought I remembered my yacht had a little more, it certainly does at the deck level, being 2450. Yes, I use Rhino CAD and really like it, it's so intuitive to use I find. I used to have Rhino Marine which became Orca and hadn't had it that long when they dropped support and became Orca and I wasn't prepared to pay for the new software which if I remember correctly is a lot more than Rhino itself! It's great you touched base considering the yacht you have and I too am interested in the comparisons. I presume you're in Aus, there are so many NIS yacht there? I really enjoyed seeing the NIS yacht sailing in Sailing Kate and Louise.

@KarlFullerNZ interesting. I would have thought your design would have had a wider waterline beam. I guess that's the advantage of the radius to the sides. A while ago I did some 3d modelling on freeship to see what happened if the NIS had another topside chine, it drastically improved the initial stability. It's probably a worthwhile improvement, I think. I could probably send you the files, but they are a bit tricky to import into Rhino. The inside ballast has the big benefit of being easily removable. This makes it much easier to tow the boat, and manhandle it ashore. The bare hull is probably close to 650kg, which I can slide on and off the trailer ashore and roll it over on my own pretty easily. The NIS 23 rides very well in a seaway, i wonder if this is due to the inside ballast and lack of form stability. It feels like a much larger boat, though it rolls a bit downwind, and heels over much further than we are used to these days. Another nice thing about having the majority of the ballast inside is that the boats stability isn't much less with the centreboard raised. I used to sail a ross 780, which was very unstable until we got the centreboard down. I quite like the waterballast idea. I'd be keen to add a bit to my sharpie. Especially handy if I could somehow use them for fresh water storage on longer trips... Yes I am in aussie, down in Tasmania. Its a nice place to sail. I'll be interested to hear how the rig experiments turn out. I've come to really like the yawl rig. The little mizzen makes heaving too simple, and prevents lee helm when deeply reefed, without cluttering the cockpit. I am almost tempted to experiment with a smaller mizzen on the NIS23.

Good to hear you're enjoying the channel! I'll be leaving the temporary frames in as long as possible and remove them after the deck is on so the hull stays in shape. To help with that, I have made some temporary gunnels. I'm working on the deck at the moment after I recently turned over the hull.

Hi Tariq, thanks for the "well done", nothing like a bit of encouragement when you're feeling your way through a construction method you've not used before! I've followed Sven a bit and am quite interested in his unique and novel solutions. Yes, you could 'cover over' the cockpit and have a great interior space down aft. It wouldn't work for me though, I like easy access getting in and out of the water and dinghy.

Cheers Ezra. Good question. In this type of construction the strength of the boat does not rely on the joint being strong, so much so that butt joints can even be used as long as they are not side by side. The reason is the timber over all acts like a finger joint, the real strength as with foam construction, is from the skins. Paul from the club told me he built a catamaran and experimented with using fairing resin and micro balloons to join the planks to avoid the problem I had in that the glue line is a lot harder than in his case Cedar, more so for Paulownia. He found the planks did not break on the glue line and from what I've seen, I'd agree. But yes, it's still good to use a scarf joint because it helps keep the 'planks' fair. It does glue very well I've found, without having to pre-soak the timber and doesn't seem to over absorb the resin in the glue and dry the joint. It's very nice to work with! a little over 200kg a cubic meter whereas Cedar is about 385. However, as I've mentioned in video, I did go thicker than required for cedar as you might with foam, but mainly because skins of the same weight further apart make a stronger result and it also aids in construction and therefore I can use less internal structure.

Certainly appreciate the comment! Yes, the RAN boat is a monumental achievement.

Thank you! Next episode will be out soon.

No, not a NIS yacht, but I admire the NIS yacht designs so much I probably would have built one if I didn't have a desire to design another yacht for myself. There is a bit of info on the design in this video if you haven't watched it. ruclips.net/video/BoctrI42y18/видео.html

I appreciate your suggestions, you've been thinking about it! Yes, there's not many around with vertical battens, here's one ruclips.net/video/lJ_2IlF73dA/видео.htmlsi=bDOFHy2E67rzUpYI I have similar views about the slot effect in regard to yacht sails when comparing them to the evolution in plane wings. It's going to be interesting to see how she goes. Have given what you're talking about in regard to holding up the wishbones a lot of thought and it has been done in a manner you're talking about, like this example but it uses rollers on the sail around the mast, to opose the outhaul tension. It works but it's not a solution I like and rollers over a sail track would not be great probably. ruclips.net/video/3BmmrgzmTHs/видео.htmlsi=BG7jeHx3qGVJA_a4

Thanks for the feedback! Agree with you about having the luff of the sail in a track or bolt rope groove because it would give a better profile when reefed. Probably will go ahead with trying the wishbone support as I planned it given the thought time I've put into it! You still need a topping lift for the aft of the wishbones so still need a swivel at the top. I can't imagine the drag being too bad as I'll use thin Dyneema. I take your point about the extra weight of an extra sail a lot of the time but I'm thinking upwind you'd get the potential of a good wing shape, a very rudimentary version of the Sail GP sails so it could as you can see, it's swings and roundabouts. It may turn out some of my ideas might not work but part of the incentive for the project is the satisfaction of the inventive side of it.

Thanks for the comments! This paulownianz.co.nz/ is the source of the timber, really good people to deal with, great to see it growing on the farm, using cow dung nutrients. I'm not too sure of the cost relative to cedar, in my part of the world, and probably would have used poplar from just down the road if I hadn't used Paulownia but the cost of the timber for this yacht was a bit over $6k NZ. I could have used less but I intend to use it instead of plywood, so am using quite a bit.

@@KarlFullerNZ > Thanks for the info, I will be following along with interest. One more thing, I went to look at your earlier videos, yet only the current one and one other turned up, I thought I had watched more than that already, is RUclips deleting them from your playlist?, it would be nice to go back and review your design talks again.

@@BlueChromegood that you're keeping an eye on RUclips for me! I've had a look and if you go to my channel and hit the videos option you should see the 4 videos I've made on this design and build.

Appreciate your astute comment and I probably should have explained better that the cause of wanting to increase the displacement at that late stage was because my spreadsheet sum of weights, was starting to compromise some of my decisions as to what weight I added. If it was purely a race yacht, and there wasn't a tight budget, I might have better kept to my original target. I used to build steel yacht hulls to someone else's designs and people were forever having to raise their waterline paint, I'm trying to head that situation off while keeping in mind, any % of weight saving on anything you can, adds up.

Cheers!

You certainly get quick reefing with a Junk. It's going to be interesting to see how practical and quick reefing with this rig will be.

Good to get your feedback thanks! I agree, if you're trying a combination of ideas, in my case attempting to blend the best of a Cat Rig and a Ljungström Rig, there's only so much that can be done in a CAD program, in your head or on paper, before a model is required to clarify things. For the single sail solution, the mast height above deck is 9.3m/30.5ft. What line of design work are you in?

@@KarlFullerNZ Hi Karl, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions, which I appreciate. I'm considering a sailing boat in the 8 to 10-meter range. For the moment, I am designing and modeling it as an aluminum hard chine type of design. In this way, any plywood boat design can be 'converted' to a metal-based hull. Why aluminum, you may ask? My objective is to make it a capable high-latitude yacht (think Svalbard in the Northern Hemisphere), and secondly, the project will improve my aluminum welding and building skills. My first iteration will be a much scaled-down version to identify practical building issues and the best approach for the final build. The boat should not be any larger than it can fulfill its function, which is a good approach from a DIY and economic point of view. It's fun and encourages me to expand my knowledge. Cheers.

@@CptnbondIt'll certainly improve your welding skills! I have built one Alu 39ft David de Villiers design and it turned out really well. sites.google.com/site/karlfnz/liso39 I agree, build just enough for what you need, too many yachts don't get finished or sailed because the owner is too dependent on crew. Having designed, built and sailed a 60ft steel yacht for myself, I can testify to those comments! I found a big part of building an Alu yacht is the MIG welder. If you can afford it, try to get a twin pulse machine, it makes a big difference, especially for positional welds. Also, everything must be kept very clean and draft free. It's way too easy to get porosity! All the best for your project!

Thanks for the encouraging comments! The Gerr book is Called Elements of Boat Strength. It's quite comprehensive and covers pretty much all boat building. This is the website where I got the YDE Scantling guidelines www.macnaughtongroup.com/default.htm and the email for Thomas McNaughton is tommacn1@gmail.com He sends a the formulae as PFD but they need putting into a spreadsheet which I can't supply sorry because they do charger a little for the info.

@@KarlFullerNZ Thanks Karl, I appreciate your quick answers. Cheers.

I use the Rhinoceros CAD Program which is not dedicated marine hull design software but does have some great tools. I used to have plugin Rhinomarine which was great but they folded and became I think Orcra3D

Thank you! Yes, I'm looking forward to the progress too and trying not to miss out on another summers sailing.

That's great, new video should be out in a few days!

Thanks Ralph, and she knows her own way to Tonga and Fiji!

Hi Jim, sorry about the delay in getting back to you. I've pretty much retired my design work, but I could send you some information. If you wanted to go further after getting some details, we could possibly make something work. Where are you based?

Thanks for the feedback. First video I ever made, I would do it differently if done again. The music is Mark Knofler, not everyone's taste but works for me.

Disagree. I love the music and the video is excellent. The video is just an introduction. A serious potential buyer would need further info.

Not yet. It was designed for a client with a big budget but could be built without all the high end gear. Thanks for question William.

Certainly the design could be flush decked but like everything, there are pros and cons for this.